Alfred Tesseron, owner, Ch Pontet-Canet website: Technology is neither necessary nor desirable, as only taste can guide choices and reveal the emotional subtleties of a great terroir treated with respect.
Conclusions from the tasting:
This was a simply sensational tasting. Because the en primeur prices were so high, very few of these labels ever reached retail / wine shop shelves in New Zealand. Therefore, few New Zealand people have tasted them at all.
The tasting got off to a good start, with not a single bottle showing cork / TCA taint. Are we really reaching the level of (re-considered) artisan work plus backing-up technology where cork can be (nearly) relied on ? As the tasting proceeded, the little noises of pleasure to be heard round the room were both exciting, and immensely rewarding for the presenter.
For the wines, the better ones showed a freshness of character which showcases Bordeaux at its best, coupled with a ripeness and concentration bespeaking a great year. The year 2010 combines the essential elements of ‘classical’ bordeaux, namely fragrance and florality on bouquet, with good acid balance on palate, plus concentration, ripeness and depth, in the modern style. A simple index to the level of both satisfaction and the learning opportunities that this tasting presented can be gathered from the fact that seven of the twelve wines were one or more person’s top or second-favourite wine. In the writing-up of the wines, nine of the 12 wines rank gold-medal level by Australasian judging standards. It is fair to note these standards are very different from those applying in London, where the wine world is at commentators’ feet, and the absolute benchmark labels rarely or never tasted in New Zealand are seen relatively frequently.
Among the wines, 2010 Ch Montrose is revelatory. 2010 Ch Leoville-Barton and 2010 Vieux Chateau Certain epitomise in a marvellous / at-best way the contrasting winestyles of the west and east bank, cabernet-led and merlot-led. And 2010 Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou is up there too, appealing more to those who mark up new oak in their claret, whether recognised as new oak or not.
An indication of the quality of the wines in the tasting can be gained from the fact that these top six all scored 19 + or more … an almost unimaginable result given there were only 12 wines all told. Nine of the 12 were gold medal level or better. From the left, our 2010 Ch Lynch-Bages did not seem quite as remarkable as the bottle reported on from London, but still impressed for its amazing freshness and youth, with clear-cut cassisy berry characters and subtle oak. Three people had it as their top wine, 19 +; next 2010 Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste, showing a suppleness and charm with soft cedary complexity which made it more accessible than some, but did not appeal to the group so much, 19 +; the 2010 Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou stood out a little in the top six, not only for its superb 56 mm cork, but also with its much more noticeable new-oak handling adding just a thought of the New World. This was matched by intense and perfectly ripe cabernet sauvignon characters, eight people rating it their top or second wine, 19 +; then the East Bank contender, the very highly regarded 2010 Vieux Chateau Certan, beautifully floral as merlot should be but so often is not, and supple bottled plum and blueberry notes on palate. It was hard to imagine how an East Bank wine could be more characteristic, with ten tasters rating it their favourite or second-favourite wine in the set, 19.5; in second place was the intensely cassisy 2010 Ch Leoville Barton, in a sense exactly defining how a top-level West Bank cabernet-dominant wine should smell and taste, forming a beautiful comparison and contrast with the merlot-dominant Vieux Certan. Eight people had the Barton as their top or second-favourite wine, 19.5; and finally the exceptional 2010 Ch Montrose, one of the absolutely great Ch Montrose offerings, with a density and velvety richness of berry which is off-the-scale, yet astonishing freshness and aromatic complexity too. This is a 90-year wine, which six people had as their top or second-favourite, 19.5 +;One could not own too many of these 2010 bordeaux. I am increasingly of the view that in both Bordeaux and the Rhone Valley North and South, 2010 is the new 1961.
Introduction to the 2010 vintage:
The goal in setting up this tasting of the most expensive Bordeaux en primeur campaign ever offered, is to combine some of the highly-praised wines with some of those still affordable, by the time they reach New Zealand. As always, even though the top names were demanding high prices, there were plenty of smaller chateau not caught up in the hype. For example Paveil de Luze, a much-improved cru bourgeois from the Medox, landed here for under $50 on the shelf.
But just to set the tone, let’s for a moment consider the wines at the other end of the scale. We reached the point with the 2010 campaign, where a fair number of well-regarded chateau ended up over that critical $500 per bottle landed cost, which once was the preserve only of the First Growths. Ch Palmer, for example … compared with my first purchase of it from the 1966 vintage, at $6.30 on the shelf in Fletcher-Humphreys, Christchurch. For my 2010 buying strategy, I retained that $500 landed cost absolute limit.
Farr Vintners of London are now the single most famous and largest provider of en primeur Bordeaux to the UK market in the first instance, but to the world at large as well. For many years, Farr Vintners and it predecessor organisations have mounted a '10 years on' tasting of their earlier Bordeaux en primeur campaigns. In February 2020, the subject was the 2010 vintage. They assembled no less than 180 of the more important wines of Bordeaux ... and tasted them in 15 flights of 12, over 2 days. Participants included a veritable who's who of the world wine trade, including 8 MWs, Julia Harding MW from jancisrobinson.com, Neal Martin from vinous.com, and Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW from robertparker.com. This is a scale and depth of wine tasting which we in New Zealand (or Australia) can only marvel at. Considering that they are tasting the greatest cabernet / merlots in the world, it throws into sharp focus the sad fact that so many local wine-writers seem to start their scoring range at 90 points, despite in many cases having never tasted a number of these absolutely benchmark or defining wines, as in the 180 top wines the Farr Vintners panel assessed.
Stephen Browett, now a substantial owner and Chairman of Farr Vintners, has written up this tasting in a most engaging way. Here are some of this thoughts, précised, focussing rather more on a context for the wines which we have. Astonishingly, some of ours (which I have marked in bold red, below), though under that critical $NZ500 ceiling, still measure up well in Browett's summary:
Expectations were very high coming in to the tasting and the big questions on everybody’s lips were “How great is the 2010 vintage?” and “Is it ready to drink?”.
Pomerol in general produced a stunning set of wines with four of the vintage’s top seven places. The tannic structure of the 2010 vintage was tamed by the sheer plushness and weight of ripe Merlot fruit here. Some 2010s on the left bank and in Saint Emilion are pretty firm and stern, but here they are spherical, complete and harmonious. In many cases they are drop-dead gorgeous and pretty much ready to drink. The Pomerol winner (and 3rd place overall) was the quite magnificent L’Eglise Clinet with Lafleur, Le Pin and Vieux Chateau Certain just behind. All four of these are absolutely sensational and some of the finest young wines that I have ever tasted.
[ Since most of us will never taste current Ch Petrus, for interest we can interpolate the Pomerol scores of Neal Martin and Lisa Perrotti-Brown at this exact tasting (from Vinous.com and RobertParker.com respectively). For Vieux Chateau Certan NM is 97, vs L.P-B 100. For Ch Petrus, NM is 96, vs L.P-B (sitting on the fence) again 100. So fervently hoping that our bottle is sound, we have the chance of tasting claret about as good as it gets. See also Montrose and Lynch-Bages, below, which offer similar possibilities.]
Saint Julien produced a great set of wines in 2010 with some deep colours, classic Cabernet Sauvignon fruit intensity matched by a structure that will make these candidates for long-term ageing. Our top two were the slightly more plush and glossy Ducru Beaucaillou and Léoville Poyferré and the more open-knit Langoa Barton [ a reserve wine ] in third place out-scoring the more closed and tannic (but ultra-serious) Léoville Barton. This is a classic claret than needs at least another five years in bottle. As always the consistency in this flight was excellent – collectors can buy with confidence knowing that this appellation performs well right across the board and offers classic Médocain style in a 2010 guise.
In Saint Estèphe the traditional order was maintained with the top two wines – Montrose and Cos d’Estournel – clearly ahead of everyone else. The former has superb purity and dense, mouthcoating tannins that make it destined for the long haul. Such is the intensity and drive that it may not reach its peak for another decade or more.
Finally to Pauillac where two of the greatest young Bordeaux wines that I have ever tasted were our clear winners. Top of the pack with four perfect scores was the incredible Latour 2010. ... However, for those of us who can’t afford to drink First Growths every night, the big news here was the incredible performance of Lynch Bages. This classic claret is the essence of Cabernet Sauvignon and is all set to mature into one of this property’s greatest ever wines. With a jet black colour, huge black fruit and matching tannins, this First Growth taste-alike was the third highest rated wine of not just Pauillac, but of the entire left bank of Bordeaux – even outscoring Lafite, Margaux and Haut Brion. This wine is still not ready to drink but is starting to reveal its true potential as the tannins soften and the enormous weight of fruit bursts into life. There were also terrific performances by ... Grand Puy Lacoste (refined, supple and subtle) – truly fabulous and much closer to maturity than some of the neighbours.
So, how do we describe 2010 red Bordeaux and how does it rate against other years? First of all it is abundantly clear that this a great vintage. For me it is very different in style to the more opulent and obviously sexy 2009. I would say that 2009 is more consistent as a vintage with quality at every level, but 2010 at the top contains higher peaks with several potentially perfect wines. The very best of these are not yet mature but their class is clearly evident.
The Wine Spectator current rating for the 2010 vintage is: Left Bank 99, their highest-ever rating (in their schedule back to 1972), Right Bank 98, top equal with 1989. Wine Advocate ratings are 94T – 99T, varying with village.
The Invitation to the Tasting:
Make no mistake, 2010 is a great year in Bordeaux. For the next 50 years, enthusiasts will argue as to whether the best wines match or surpass the 1961s … but the point is, the vintage is of that calibre. It is particularly like 1961 in that it is a year of classical restraint, needing cellaring. Thus some of the fashionistas, for whom everything has to be accessible immediately, have mocked the vintage. Disregard them.
With global warming, plus immense advances in the science and practice of wine-making, fine vintages in Bordeaux are now much more commonplace than even 20 years ago. In this century there was a tentative start with the 2000 vintage, then a great step forward with the 2005s. Jump a few years, and there are the warm-year, plush and thus accessible 2009s appealing to the American palate, then the taut and aromatic 2010s, in a sense appealing more to the European palate. 2015 and 2016 is an exact replay of that sequence. In purchasing the 2010s, notwithstanding them being the most expensive en primeur Bordeaux vintage ever offered, I was excited by the early reports. Now, having waited the traditional 10 years (“it is a sin against the spirit of the bottle etc …” ) for good Bordeaux to reveal some its charms, how will these still-expensive wines open up for us ? Note these wines are quite rare in New Zealand, due to their high en primeur offer price.
With the passage of the years, old mentors and advisors are increasingly challenged by young and very switched-on tasters. For Bordeaux, two English palates are to the fore, Neal Martin at Vinous, and Jane Anson at Decanter. And in a more supervisory role, there is also Stephen Browett, now owner of the fabulous Farr Vintners of London, to be listened to. The above summary of the status of the 2010 vintage is abstracted from their writings.
As to our wines, considering both Browett’s Farr Vintners report, and going back to established advisors, Jancis Robinson elsewhere lists her top 20 wines for the 2010 Bordeaux. When you reflect that she is frequently tasting wines of a price and calibre we never see, such as Ch Cheval Blanc, Ch Petrus, the Rothschilds etc, for us to have even four of her top 20 wines is extraordinary. When I add in that Lisa Perrotti-Brown, now the chief Bordeaux taster at RobertParker.com has given one of those four wines 100 points in her comprehensive 2020 review of the 2010 Bordeaux, and that both she and Neal Martin have given another of the four 99 points, you can see that by New Zealand standards, this Library Tasting of 2010 Bordeaux comes very close to being an opportunity to taste truly benchmark cabernet / merlot blends. But I have also included some affordable wines, to retain a grip on reality. This tasting should be a very special experience.
Brook, Stephen, 2007: The Complete Bordeaux. Mitchell Beazley, 720 p.
Browett, Stephen, 2010: Bordeaux Ten Years On, February 2020. https://www.farrvintners.com/blog.php?blog=276
Parker, Robert M., 2003: Bordeaux, Fourth Edition. Simon & Schuster, New York, 1244 p.
Peppercorn, D. 1982: Bordeaux. Faber & Faber, 424 p.
Robinson, Jancis, Feb. 1920: My top-scoring 2010 red bordeaux. https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/bordeaux-better-ageing-selling
www.decanter.com = latterly, Jane Anson for Bordeaux, some free material on website, subscription needed for longer articles, and reviews
www.jancisrobinson.com = Jancis Robinson MW and Julia Harding MW, some free articles, subscription needed for reviews
www.robertparker.com = Robert Parker and successors, for Bordeaux Lisa Perrotti-Brown, vintage chart, subscription needed for reviews
https://vinous.com = Antonio Galloni and associates, now notably Neal Martin for Bordeaux. Introduction to articles free to mailing list, subscription needed for reviews
www.winespectator.com = vintage chart, subscription needed for reviews.
Authors / Initials cited:
FV: Farr Vintners, London (UK)
JA: Jane Anson UK @ Decanter
JH: Julia Harding MW (UK), @ Jancis Robinson
JM: James Molesworth (US), @ Wine Spectator
JR: Jancis Robinson MW (UK)
L.P-B: Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW (US), @ Wine Advocate
NM: Neal Martin (UK), @ Vinous, formerly at Wine Advocate
RP: Robert Parker (US), @ Wine Advocate
SS: Stephen Spurrier (UK), @ Decanter
WA: Wine Advocate (US)
WS: Wine Spectator (US)
Particular thanks to Scott Gray, of Maison Vauron, for help with 2010 En Primeur pricing … appreciated.
THE WINES REVIEWED – CABERNET MERLOT
The first ‘price’ given is the current wine-searcher world-market value, if available, per 750ml bottle. An approximation of the original purchase price is given in the text, if evidence / best recollection is available. In the reviews, I try to contrast a British view with a United States one … and sometimes an earlier view with a later.
Ruby, carmine and velvet, very fresh and clearly the deepest, richest and most saturated of the wines. Yet the bouquet has a freshness to it, just an aromatic edge to the cassis, which is most unusual. Behind are florals, darkest roses and violets, intense cassis more than blackberry fruit, and further below in the nett bouquet impression is sweet oak. In mouth the richness is tactile: oh, how I'd like a dry extract on this wine, it must be well over 30 g/L. Now I have some idea what that fabulous 1959 Montrose, the greatest Montrose I have ever tasted, was like as a young wine. The richness of berry totally overwhelms the cedary oak, yet good acid and the Saint-Estephe tannin (as well as the oak) all give the wine impeccable structure. A glorious Montrose which will cellar for as long as the 50 mm corks hold. Perceiving the quality, since the chateau itself states this is a 90 year wine, a pity they did not use 54 mm corks. Close to perfection. Three people rated Montrose their top wine, and three second favourite. Cellar 20 – 60 years. GK 09/20
Ruby, carmine and velvet, the third deepest of the wines, very fresh. One sniff and the excitement / pleasure is extraordinary. This wine shines a laser beam on the concept ‘cassis’ as a marker / descriptor for high-cabernet wines. There is a purity of Médoc character here which eclipses even the Montrose, because the ratio of cabernet sauvignon at 77% is so much higher. Thus there is a freshness and depth of florality giving the bouquet a rare authority, for the West Bank. And it is totally free of the complexity notes sometimes encountered in yester-year Barton. Palate likewise has a freshness and aromatic quality bespeaking perfect ripeness of the cabernet sauvignon, showing what a great and complex grape it is when perfectly ripened in temperate climates, and then not over-oaked. It is not as rich as the off-the-scale Montrose, and does not need to be. This wine too is near perfection for young West Bank claret. The length yet lightness and freshness of the aftertaste is a delight. Two people rated Leoville Barton their top wine, and six as their second favourite. The finest young Leoville Barton I have tasted. Cellar 20 – 50 years. GK 09/20
Fairly fresh ruby and some velvet, the second lightest wine, with more development showing. There is nothing light about the bouquet, however, it showing a softness, freshness and typicité bespeaking high merlot made fragrant with cabernet franc (and trace cabernet sauvignon, unusual for Pomerol). Bouquet is both floral, roses and lilac, with beautiful fragrant cedary oak quietly underpinning, on plummy, redcurrant and blueberry fruit. So sleek and enticing. Palate is exactly the same, much richer than expected, the longer flavour bottled omega plums and blueberry. This is very beautiful wine contrasting vividly with the more aromatic cabernet sauvignon dominating the Leoville Barton. In their purity and depth of berry flavour, and the subtlety and beauty of their oaking, they make a special pair of 2010 Bordeaux, epitomising the contrast between east and west bank wines. This is near perfection in young east bank claret. Seven people rated Vieux Chateau Certan their favourite wine, and three had it second, making it the ‘top’ wine of the tasting. Half the tasters accurately recorded this as a merlot-dominant wine. Cellar 20 – 40 years. GK 09/20
Ruby, carmine and velvet, another very fresh and beautiful young claret colour, the fourth deepest wine. Bouquet is bigger on the Ducru, a lot more apparent new oak, a wine wanting to be ‘seen’ as a First Growth, you almost think. Below is beautifully aromatic cabernet sauvignon cassisy berry, but the level of vanillin from the oak somewhat masks any florals, so you think first of heliotrope. In mouth the freshness and youth of the wine is dramatic, glorious cassisy berry filled out with 10% merlot, but at this early stage the level of new oak, highest cedary quality though it is, is a little intrusive. This will mature into a very aromatic and zingy example of classed-growth claret, showing not quite the palate weight of the Leoville Barton. There is just a hint of the New World, yet the suppleness and magic of the Old. Three people rated Ducru their top wine, and five had it in second place. Cellar 20 – 50 years. GK 09/20
Ruby, carmine and velvet, again beautifully fresh, though below midway in depth. Bouquet has all the charm and cut-through found in so many Grand-Puy-Lacostes over the years, this wonderful integration of florals, berry and cedar already at 10 years showing some of the complexity that lies ahead. The floral note is more heliotrope, due to the cedary component, but it is subtle alongside Ducru. Berry notes are a seamless mix of cassis, dark plum and blueberry, wonderfully pure. Flavours simply recapitulate the bouquet, a suppleness and charm which the Ducru won’t show for another 10 years, yet there is beautiful texture in mouth. This will be accessible sooner than the wines rated more highly (Vieux Chateau Certan aside), a very beautiful wine indeed, deceptively more substantial than it seems. On the night, Grand-Puy-Lacoste seemed understated, with no top places, and one second-favourite. Cellar 20 – 40 years. GK 9/20 GK 09/20
Ruby, carmine and velvet, another remarkably fresh wine, the second deepest. Bouquet is incredibly pure, a depth of near-violets florality on highly cassisy berry, all shaped by cedary oak. Freshly opened it was a little reticent, so in bouquet the quality recognised by Stephen Browett did not jump out at you. In flavour it is the freshness and aromatics of the cabernet sauvignon component that strikes you, and the astonishing youth of the wine. It is more berry-dominant than the Ducru and Grand-Puy, but less intensely cassisy and rich than the Leoville Barton. Nor is it as rich as the Montrose. The flavours present a harmony, elegance and complexity that is remarkable, with a perfect balance to oak, but overall restraint. Another wonderful wine, with the freshness and poise of this remarkable 2010 vintage. To a person who has been tasting Bordeaux off and on for 50 years, it is the absolute purity of these modern wines that is compelling. It will be fascinating to watch Lynch-Bages over the next 20 years, and see if the great future for it foretold by Stephen Browett unfolds. Three people rated Lynch-Bages as their top wine, and one second. Cellar 20 – 50 years. GK 09/20
Fairly fresh ruby, carmine and velvet, right in the middle for depth. With several reports of 2010 Giscours opening variably around the world, it was a relief to decant this, and find a fresh young wine in great condition. Bouquet is model Médoc, nearly floral, good cassis and darkly plummy undertones, light cedary oak, attractive. Palate is less integrated than the Grand-Puy-Lacoste, a youthful wine not quite on the scale of those marked more highly, but attractively aromatic and cassisy, still with good mouth feel. It is not as floral and beautiful as the d’Issan, with its Margaux magic, the Giscours being a richer and more sturdy wine. It still captures the appeal of the aromatic 2010s very well. No votes for top or second-favourite. Cellar 20 – 40 years. GK 09/20
Ruby and velvet, some development showing, just above midway in depth. If there had been a New World foil in the set, this would have been it, the wine showing a certain boldness and aggressiveness beyond the recorded 14.5% alcohol. You wonder if there is threshold VA. Within this big bouquet there is saturated cassis not quite so fresh and youthful as the top wines, plus plummy depths, and cedary oak. It is nostril- clearing. Flavour is big too, almost a mint-like complexity note, great berry richness the flavours all melding together, and a lot more ripeness and oak than most in the field. This wine will appeal more to people who regard florality and delicacy / subtlety in claret as nonsense. One person had Pontet-Canet as their top wine, but three rated it second. Big sturdy dry wine to cellar 20 – 50 years, but looking a bit burly in the company. GK 09/20
Beautifully fresh ruby, carmine and velvet, but not as big a wine as some, the third to lightest colour. The bouquet is in one sense light too, but what it lacks in gravitas it makes up for in exquisite florality, beauty and charm. This really is violets and dusky roses, uncanny, on sweetly fragrant cassisy berry, so delicate. You feel this fragrant wine offers a window into Jancis Robinson's tasting soul, she several times in recent years having enthused about the style of Ch d’Issan. In flavour there is, like the Leoville Barton, perfectly-focussed cassisy berry plus darkest bottled black doris plums, but all lighter and more elegant, more feminine as used to be said, than the Leoville Barton. This is an exquisitely understated somewhat smaller-scale Médoc which is nonetheless perfectly formed – a pleasure to smell and taste. If beauty be any criterion for assessment, it has to be a gold medal wine by New World marking standards. One top place, no second. Cellar 15 – 30 years. GK 09/20
Ruby and velvet, noticeable development showing, just below midway in depth. With only 12 wines in the tasting set, and the sub-goal of spanning the (reasonable) price range, there had to be a jump in quality at some point. The Paveil opens as a softer, simpler wine than most in the field, plummy more than cassisy, even a hint of best fresh prunes, and blackberry. There is clean cedary oak below. In mouth the impression of greater ripeness continues, the style more 2009 than 2010, the wine more one-dimensional than those marked more highly. There is more development too, yet still the Bordeaux lightness of touch to the finish. No votes for top or second place, but six as least wine. I did wonder if this bottle shows trace premature development. Cellar 10 – 25 years. GK 09/20
Ruby, garnet and velvet, clearly the ‘oldest’ wine in the set, and the lightest. Bouquet is fragrant, bespeaking riper fruit than most of these 2010s, and all dark plums, no cassis aromatics, as befits a wine with no cabernet sauvignon. Palate shows good purity, but again much greater ripeness than one wants in the 2010s, no florals or aromatics, almost prune-y notes in the forward plummy fruit, straightforward nearly-cedary oak, quite good richness. This wine vividly shows why the wine world meaning Britain thought Médocs so clearly superior to East Bank wines, till the Bordeaux market was derailed by the American palate seeking softer, rounder, and riper wines, with it seems much less attention being paid to aromatics and floral complexity on bouquet. Perfectly sound and good, but lacks excitement. No votes for top places, one least vote. Cellar 10 – 25 years. GK 09/20
Ruby and velvet, fairly fresh, a bit more development the Chateau Certan, just below midway in depth. Bouquet is soft, ripe and darkly plummy, very East Bank, let down a little by a trace rank note which I associate with less-than-immaculate cooperage. That off-note becomes more noticeably rank in the plummy flavour, plaining the wine down. It is quite rich and very ripe / over-ripe, but does not offer the exciting view of a 100% merlot wine which I hoped it would introduce in this great vintage, to be a point of contrast with the Médocs. Fruit to the tail is tending dry and tanniny, even though it is quite concentrated. Disappointing. No favourable votes, seven least places. Cellar 10 – 25 years. GK 09/20
# 2010 Ch Calon Segur
Saint-Estephe Third Growth, Bordeaux, France: 14%; $228 Cork; landed $158; CS 56%, Me 35, CF 7, PV 2, average age 22 years, planted at 8,000 vines / ha, with the immediate goal to increase the CS to 70% by 2032; all hand-picked at 5.9 t/ha = 2.4 t/ac; fermentation in s/s, cuvaison to 21 days; elevation 18 – 20 months in 100% new barrels; average production 6,650 x 9-litre cases; consulting oenologist earlier Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, now Eric Boissenot; JR records the 2010 as being CS 86%, Me 12, PV 2, plus 14% press wine; NM@Vinous, 2020: ... a slightly gamey bouquet, vibrant and energetic with plenty of red and black fruit. This appears to gain complexity with aeration, revealing hidden facets with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a really gorgeous, surprisingly fleshy but focused finish that exudes style and class. What a lovely wine ... to 2055, 94; RP@WA, 2011: ... a concentrated, textured wine ... notes of plums, kirsch, licorice, incense and herbs. Full-bodied, moderately tannic, pure, fresh and precise, this beauty will require lots of patience, 92 - 94+; website hard to use, no menu; www.calon-segur.fr
# 2010 Ch La Lagune
Haut-Medoc (Ludon) Third Growth, Bordeaux, France: 14.5%; $138 Cork; landed $106; CS 60%, Me 20, CF 10, PV 10.
# 2010 Ch Langoa-Barton
Saint-Julien Third Growth, Bordeaux, France: 13%; $170 Cork; landed $122; CS 70%, Me 20, CF 8, PV 2.